Thank you, Firefly, for today’s blog title.
I am loving knitting with Sea Silk. It is extremely soft and pleasant, and it slides effortlessly over the needle with nary a split or a snag. I think it’s going to make a wonderfully drapey wrap.
Beate asked:
One question: If you knit a garter stich edging, doesn’t it pull the lace pattern in – because of different row gauge? I am thinking of knitting a lace wrap myself and would like your opinion re. a garter or seed stitch border/edging.
A very good question indeed. Garter stitch “pulls in” much more than stockinette stitch so the row gauge is higher — you need more rows of garter sttich than stockinette to make an inch.
However. (“However” is just a fancy “but,” you know.)
The Sea Silk is fingering weight and the recommended needle is a 3mm — a U.S. size 2, with a gauge of 28 stitches to 4 inches. I’m knitting it on a 3.75mm needle — a U.S. size 5. My resulting knitted fabric is quite soft. The garter edges naturally open up and expand to accomodate the body of stockinette they surround. Even without me tugging on it, the piece does not pull in at the edges.

And thanks to the comments from Gale and Liz, we know that Sea Silk blocks out well, so the edges will undoubtedly stay nice and even after blocking.
Now if I were knitting this at the recommended gauge and with the recommended needle, I’d be getting a much firmer fabric, and I bet the garter stitch would pull in.
Jacinta commented:
I have just finished a very simple crochet shawl in the sea silk, I used two skeins and it didn’t go as far as I thought, I am a bit doubtful whether you will have enough yarn for your wrap?
Hmmmmm, I have 800 meters of Sea Silk. (I convert that to 875 yards, because I am a sad American who is still unable to think in meters.) Several years ago I made the Kimono Shawl from Cheryl Oberle’s book Folk Shawls in Koigu, also a fingering weight yarn (though slightly heavier than Sea Silk, I think). The Kimono Shawl calls for 1000 yards. I remember knitting my Kimono Shawl shorter than the pattern directed, and even then, it blocked out huge.
Doesn’t crochet take more yarn than knitting, generally speaking? Of course, everything is relative, and depends on one’s personal preferences in shawl length. I want something long enough to comfortably wrap around myself in my sub-arctic office. I won’t realy know about the Sea Silk until I’ve finished the first skein. and I won’t really REALLY know until after I block it!
Wendy asked:
I have just completed a Clapotis using Lion & Lamb in the Aslan colourway. I am not happy with the finished product. Maybe the Clapotis is just not my thing, but I had the yarn for the project for ages and decided to go with it.
I am going to rip it and was looking for a suggestion for a shawl/wrap? Most of the patterns I have are for lighter weight yarns. Can you help me out again? I am also wondering how the Lion & Lamb will fare after having been blocked, undone, washed and rewound….hmmm.
Shawls in heavier weights. You could always go the route of a simple shawl and the shawl formula that L-B showed me a couple of years ago. I used that to make a stripey shawl out of my first handspun, all worsted weight.
Or check out Cheryl Oberles’ book, Folk Shawls, which I mentioned above. A few of the shawls in there work with heavier weight yarns. I made the Highland Triangle Shawl out of Henry’s Attic Montana, which is a heavier yarn.
Sockish Stuff
Michelle asked:
Other than Lucy’s colourway, what is your favorite sock yarn to knit with…colour aside…just material!
I like sock yarns that are Koigu-y in feel — the sproingy, squishy ones. I like to knit them and I like to wear them!
Lucy sez:

Well of course my colorway is her favorite!
P.S. If you haven’t already, go to Romancing the Yarn and enter their contest! Yes, I realize that I’m lessening my chances of winning by telling some of you who may not know about it. But I’m just a sweetheart like that, ya know?
























